Ghalib ki haveli


बल्लीमारान के मोहल्ले की वो पेचीदा दलीलों की सी गलियां
सामने ताल के नुक्कड़ पर बटेरों के कसीदे
गुडगुडाती हुई पान की पीकों में वो दाद वो वह वह
चाँद दरवाज़ों पर लटके हुए
बोसीदा से कुछ टाट के परदे ….

These ultimate lines was written by great poet Gulzar as the introduction of his dream project “Mirza Ghalib”.I am a die heart fan of Mirza Ghliab,I find a great writer,a philosopher and more than that an emotional person in Ghalib.In India and other urdu and persian countries,Ghalib is a known personality.For the poets,he is the Master.

Staying in the city of ghalib,It was my wish to visit his place,where he lived and wrote all his memorable shayaris.I planned many times but as a global rule,Plans never work.So,today I just picked up my Camera and caught the Metro.

I was having some picture of Ghalib’s Haveli in my mind because,Mirza Ghalib serial was shooted at the same place and I have seen the serial many times.I was too excited to see “Gali Qaasim Jaan”.Gulzar described in such a nice way that anyone can have a desire to visit it atleast once.Well,I got down to Chandani Chauk Metro station and took a Rikhsaw to reach Ballimaran.Ballimaran is famous for their leather articles and for non-vegetarian dishes.Gali Qaasim Jaan is on the third left.I was thinking that Ghalib’s Haveli is treated as protected monuments,but the condition of Haveli made me sad,I passed the Haveli without recongnized it because there is nothing special,nobody can notice it without reading its name on the gate.There was no one in the Haveli except two guards,one of them was sleeping from hours and the other one is busy in reading the newspaper.

Once I entered in the haveli,I was surprised because the entrance has been divided into two parts,one goes to a room where some of the work of Ghalib is being displayed and the other one goes to a mobile shop/travel agency,residence etc.This is the way how encroachers work in India,and this is the way how our archaeology department works.Even after Ghalib’s haveli declared as monument in 1999,Three person were found working at a table with plywood and carpentry equipment strewn around the open courtyard inside the building in october 2011.Before 1999,a heater manufacturing plant was running in the building.Many of the neighbours are still sharing the boundaries with Haveli,apparently they do not shy away from littering in the premises of the building, even though they are aware of the importance of the place.

Anyways,It was a good experience to see Ghalib’s Chausar,his cloths and some of the books at the place,to which he belongs.I clicked few photographs as there was not much to click.Ballimaran is famous for Afgani dishes,I had biryani,One can say nice to it but being a foodie and being a regular visitor of Hyderabadi dum biryani house,I really didnt cherish the taste.One can find many restaurants serving afghani pilao, kababs, shorba,kofta curry, korma and naan.One can try Bismillah Hotel,but dont think about the hygiene.

For me it was an OK OK experience but being a big fan of Ghalib,this visit gave me the satisfaction …atleast I met with my Master’s place.

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One thought on “Ghalib ki haveli

  1. बल्लीमारान के मोहल्ले की वो पेचीदा दलीलों की सी गलियां ……..

    सामने टाल के नुक्कड़ पर बटेरों के कसीदे …….. गुड़गुड़ाती हुई पान की पीकों में वो दाद , वो वाह वाह ……..

    चंद दरवाज़ों पर लटके हुए बोशीदा से कुछ टाट के परदे …….एक बकरी के मिमयाने की आवाज़ ……….

    और धुंधलाई हुई शाम के बेनूर अँधेरे ऐसे दीवारों से मुहँ जोड़ के चलते हैं यहाँ …….

    चूड़ीवालां के कटड़े की बड़ी बी जैसे अपनी बुझती हुई आँखों से दरवाज़े टटोले ……

    इसी बेनूर अँधेरी सी गली कासिम से एक तरतीब चरागों की शुरू होती है ………

    एक कुराने सुखन का सफा खुलता है ……….. असदल्ला खां ग़ालिब का पता मिलता है |

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